每天认识一个原产地 | 俄国沃伦卡（Volynka）皮革
俄国沃伦卡（Volynka）皮革
爱马仕的沃伦卡皮革贵在哪❓
🗝️沃伦卡（Volynka）皮革最早来自俄罗斯，以其防水性和坚韧度闻名于世。“很多人都对此津津乐道，但并没有人清楚它是如何制作出来的。” 从事历史研究的Sophie Mounquin在一部专著中指出：“想要理清楚这种俄国牛皮革的生产历史，是完全不可能的。 我们只知道，它曾是西方国家与俄罗斯的贸易往来中zui心仪的商品之一，直到上个世纪初，最上等的品种当属莫斯科地区出场的牛皮鞣制皮革。后来，它的制作工艺便不幸失传了。
🗝️九十年代，爱马仕购得了十几张这种神奇的皮料。其中些被加工成了Sac à dépěches包和Kelly包。现收藏于庞坦的“爱马仕收藏馆”。
🗝️但爱马仕不想止步于此：其在2011年创建了一个工作团队。该团队的使命是：发掘出这种皮革材料的奥秘。这种皮革有着菱状颗粒，通常以小牛皮加工而成，传统上经常染成红色，而且经过了某种气味浓重的油料浸制和强化处理。这项研究工作进行了整整六年，许多精益求精的工艺大师都义无反顾地参与进来。最终，爱马仕破解了Volynka皮革的制作奥秘，找到了神秘的桦树油料以及另外几种能够强化皮革纹理和坚实度的植物精油。
🗝️“把正山小种红茶、雪茄和泥煤威士忌混合在一起提炼出的精油，具有一种无与伦比的气味，而这正是沃伦卡皮革的标志。”
Russian Volynka leather
Why Hermes Volynka leather is so expensive:
Volynka leather originated from Russia and is famous for its water resistance and toughness. “Many people are fascinated by it, but no one knows exactly how it is made.” According to Sophie Mounquin, a historical researcher, “It is impossible to figure out the production history of this Russian cowhide leather completely. We only know that it was once one of the most desirable goods in the trade between Western countries and Russia. Until the early last century, the highest quality was the tanned cowhide leather from the Moscow region. Later, unfortunately, its production process was lost.”
In the 1990s, Hermes acquired more than a dozen pieces of this magical leather. Some were made into Sac à dépěches bags and Kelly bags. Now collected in the “Hermes Collection Museum” in Paris.
But Hermes did not want to stop there. In 2011, it created a working team. The mission of this team was to uncover the mystery of this leather material. This leather has a diamond-shaped grain and is usually made of calfskin. Traditionally, it is often dyed red and has gone through some kind of oil immersion and strengthening treatment with a strong smell. This research took a full six years, and many meticulous craftsmen participated unconditionally. In the end, Hermes cracked the secret of making Volynka leather and found the mysterious birch oil and several other plant essential oils that can strengthen the texture and firmness of the leather.
“The essential oil extracted from the mixture of Darjeeling red tea, cigars and peat whiskey has an incomparable aroma, which is the signature of Volynka leather.”
In summary, Volynka leather from Russia is a high-quality leather famous for its unique characteristics. Hermes spent six years researching and developing to reproduce this mysterious leather and replicate its distinctive aroma by using special plant essential oils. This achievement highlights Hermes’s pursuit of excellence and its refined craftsmanship in leather goods.
